Day 5: Nashik

To read the previous blog on Junnar-Jawhar-Nashik Day 4 click here

Day 5: The Pandav Leni Trek

We decided to hike up to Pandav leni in the evening. Along the way, we encountered several joggers and walkers, as well as a few trekkers attempting to climb without using the cemented steps. The uphill walk via the stairs takes about 25 minutes. Pandavleni consists of 24 ancient rock-cut caves, located approximately 8 km south of Nashik, and is among the oldest cave complexes in Maharashtra. In Marathi, “leni” means caves. Despite their name, these caves have no connection to the Pandavas. It is believed that the term “Pundru” in Pali referred to the yellow ochre robes worn by Buddhist monks, which eventually evolved into “Pandu,” leading to the mistaken association with the Pandavas.

Among the oldest Buddhist caves in Maharashtra, the Pandavleni Caves are also known as the Trirashmi Caves. This complex consists of 24 caves that reflect the influence of the Buddhist Mahayana tradition. Most of these caves were commissioned and donated by Nashik’s rulers to Buddhist monks, serving as Viharas (monasteries) during the monsoon season. The site also features a chaitya griha, or prayer hall, where sermons were conducted. One of the most intriguing aspects of these caves is the inscriptions left behind by various groups, including the Satavahanas, Kshatrapas, Abhiras, Yavanas (Greeks), and merchants. The excitement lay not only in deciphering these inscriptions but also in discovering them—hidden in plain sight yet often overlooked.

Sophie was excited as ever for another trek, and we were equally thrilled to explore this ancient wonder. There is huge parking lot at the base. There are lots of shacks near the parking lot. Its just a 300 meters walk from the parking lot. And the stairs start from there.

Short trek to Pandav Leni
credits: http://travelzunlimited.blogspot.com

We steadily climbed over 200 steps to reach the Pandavleni Caves, taking our time and reaching the top in about 10 minutes. Along the way, we paused to admire the stunning views of Nashik from above. There were also several informational boards along the route, providing details about these caves and other cave sites across Maharashtra. I frequently stopped to read them. Upon reaching the top, we purchased our tickets and proceeded to explore the caves.

The numbering of the caves begins from the rightmost side, starting with Cave 1 and continuing sequentially to Cave 24 on the leftmost end. Caves 1 and 2 are small Vihara caves, with Cave 1 appearing incomplete. Cave 2, however, features carvings of a seated and standing Buddha on its walls. Just beside this cave, water trenches can be seen.

Cave 3, known as Gautamiputra Vihara, is the largest in the Nashik cave complex. It was commissioned by Queen Gotami, the mother of Gautamiputra Satakarni of the Satavahana Empire, and dedicated to the Buddhist Sangha. This cave contains a total of 18 monk cells. At the entrance, six intricately carved pillars depict various stories. Symbols such as the Bodhi tree, Stupa, Chakra, and Dvarapal (Gatekeeper) are also visible at the entrance. An inscription here narrates the illustrious life of Queen Gotami, the mother of the great King Gautamiputra.

Caves 4 and 5 are in a ruined state, with no inscriptions visible on their walls. These are small caves, containing only a few monks’ cells. Cave 6 was dedicated to monks by a merchant, while Caves 7 and 8 were respectively donated by an ascetic named Tapasini and a fisherman. Cave 9 is small, and no significant information about it is available.