To read the previous blog on Day 01: Mandi, click here
Day 02: Bir & Baijnath.
Day 02 started with a delicious breakfast at Munish Resort, Mandi. We checked out and started the journey to Bir. We reached Bir in afternoon and checked in to a beautiful backpackers hostel called Trippy Tribe Extended, Bir. It is a pet friendly hostel. They have a pet dog called Casper. I was happy to see that the dog is never caged. He is a very friendly. Their cafe is also named after their dog ‘Casper’. The chefs at Trippy Tribe Extended, Bir really know how to create delicious, healthy meals that are both flavorful and nutritious.
We had a freshly cooked dal khichadi for lunch in their cafe and started the journey to Baijnath.
The temples of Baijnath are just a one hour drive from Bir. Cars are to be parked at the base of Ashapuri Mata Mandir and then one is supposed to climb the stairs to reach the temples. It takes around 15-20 minutes to climb all the stairs. There is washroom block on the way. There was not a single tourist presemt there when we visited it.
Ashapuri Mata Mandir
The 600-year-old Mata Ashapuri Temple, nestled in Maharaj Nagar on the Dhauladhar mountain range in Himachal Pradesh, is a revered spiritual site. Perched atop a hill and surrounded by lush green hills, it offers spectacular views of the snow-draped Dhauladhar peaks. Devoted to Goddess Ashapuri, the temple is known for fulfilling the heartfelt prayers of its devotees. A unique local belief adds to its mystique—worshippers place a coin against the temple wall while making a wish. If the coin sticks, it is said that the wish will come true. Watching many visitors engage in this ritual enhances the temple’s sacred ambiance.
Recognized and protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), this temple is an exquisite example of 17th-century architecture. Constructed by Vijay Ram, the son of Kangra’s King Chandrabhana, it is built from intricately carved sandstone. The temple showcases the Nagara style of architecture, with its prominent shikhara (spire) and mandapa (hall), reflecting the skilled artistry of its time.
Shiv Temple Baijnath
The historic Shiva temple located in Baijnath subdivision of Kangra district, Himachal Pradesh, is a revered spiritual center for Shiva devotees from across the world. This temple lies around 16 kilometers from the Pathankot–Mandi highway. It can be accessed from Delhi via Pathankot or through Chandigarh–Una by train, bus, private vehicle, or taxi. Devotees arriving by air can land at Gaggal Airport and then take a taxi to reach the temple. Pilgrims from all over the world visit here to seek the blessings of Lord Shiva. The temple offers a mesmerizing view of the Dhauladhar valley. It is renowned for its mythological significance, architectural beauty, and scenic surroundings.
According to mythological beliefs and historical evidence, the temple was built in 1204 CE by two merchant brothers named Ahuka and Mamuka. A popular legend suggests that the Pandavas constructed this temple during their exile in the Dwapara Yuga, but historical evidence does not support this claim. The temple is constructed from sandstone.
As per legend, Ravana—the King of Lanka and an ardent devotee of Lord Shiva—performed intense penance to please the deity in his quest for world conquest. Ravana was about to offer his own head into the sacred fire when Lord Shiva appeared and offered him a boon. Ravana requested Lord Shiva to accompany him to Lanka. Granting his wish, Shiva assumed the form of a Shiva Lingam and instructed Ravana not to place it on the ground until they reached Lanka, warning that if he did, the lingam would be permanently established at that spot, and Ravana’s goal would remain unfulfilled.
Alarmed by Ravana’s potential success, the gods prayed to Lord Vishnu, who took the form of a farmer and began working in the fields near the current temple site. Tired from the journey, Ravana stopped to rest and entrusted the lingam to the farmer, asking him not to place it on the ground. But the farmer set it down, and thus the Shiva Lingam became permanently established at that spot.
Another popular belief is that there are no goldsmith shops in the holy town of Baijnath, unlike nearby Papthala, where there is a flourishing gold jewelry trade. Devotees often link this to Ravana’s golden Lanka.
Several other temples dedicated to Lord Shiva can be found near Baijnath. Within a radius of approximately two and a half kos (around 7.5 kilometers), Lord Shiva is worshipped in various forms in all directions—Gukuteshwar Nath near Sansal to the east, Pallikeshwar Nath to the west, Mahakaleshwar near Mahakal in the south, and as Siddheshwar in another shrine.
Notably, Dussehra is not celebrated in Baijnath, as Ravana is regarded as Lord Shiva’s greatest devotee. It is said that on one occasion, locals burned an effigy of Ravana during Dussehra, which was followed by misfortune befalling the organizers and their families. Since then, no one has attempted to celebrate the festival here.
In Kangra district, the famous Shaktipeeths—Maa Jwala Ji, Maa Brajeshwari, and Maa Chamunda—are also worshipped. Devotees believe that prayers offered on Mondays during the holy month of Shravan yield especially auspicious results. During Makar Sankranti, the Shiva Lingam is decorated with clarified butter (desi ghee) and dry fruits, and walnuts are showered upon it. The festival of Mahashivratri is celebrated here with immense devotion, enthusiasm, and cultural fervor. A district-level fair centered on religion and culture is held during this time, featuring performances by local and out-of-state artists.
After visiting both these temples, we stopped at the Surya Classic Hotel & Restaurant, Bir for evening tea since it was a long and tiring day. This hotel is located in the Tibetian market itself. The evening was spent by shopping in the Tibetian market near Chokling Monastery. This market is famous for clothes and footwear. They are available at reasonable rates. The enter market is lit at night and has Goan vibes.
We had a local dish called ‘Chana masala’ at Casper’s Cafe in Trippy Tribe Extended, Bir. . This tiring day ended with a peaceful sleep at Trippy Tribe Extended, Bir. .
To read the next blog on Day 3: Bir, click here.
Where did we eat ?
Trippy Tribe Extended, Bir.
Surya Classic Hotel & Restaurant, Bir.
