To read the previous blog on Day 03: Bir, click here.
Day 03 : Bir to Mcleodganj
While travelling from Bir to Mcleodganj, we stopped at Church of St. John in the Wilderness. It is situated close to McLeod Ganj in Dharamshala. It is a peaceful and historically significant site tucked away in a forest of tall deodar trees. Constructed in 1852 in a neo-Gothic style, the church is particularly noted for its stunning Belgian stained-glass windows, a gift from Lady Elgin, wife of Lord Elgin.
This heritage structure is one of the few buildings that survived the devastating Kangra earthquake of 1905, adding to its historical importance. Its serene setting and graceful architecture make it a worthwhile stop for history buffs, architecture enthusiasts, or anyone in search of calm.
Located just a short walk from McLeod Ganj’s main market and bus stand, the church is open daily from 7 AM to 6 PM. Sunday morning services are also held. There is no entry fee, but be aware that there are no washrooms or parking facilities available.
We reached The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj in the evening. The road to The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj is through the narrow lanes of a very crowded Tibetian street market near Kalachakra temple. We had chai and went walking to the market to have some snacks and to do some shopping. There are lots of bakeries and Maggi stalls at the main square. This market has kashmiri kurtas, pashmina shawls, woollen wear, luggage bags. But the goods in this market are quite expensive as compared to the market near Domino’s Pizza, Vedanta Mall. The street market near Domino’s Pizza, Vedanta Mall is not crowded and the streets are wider. We purchased lots of Kashmiri kurtas and came walking to The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj for dinner.
The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj has a rooftop cafeteria and one can remotely place food orders through their app. Hence we placed the dinner order from the street market itself so that the food will be ready by the time we reach. The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj is pet friendly. There are private rooms as well as dormitories.
The day ended with a peaceful sleep at The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj
Day 04 : Mcleodganj sightseeing
The next day started with an early morning breakfast in the rooftop cafeteria at The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj. The cafeteria offers stunning views of the himalayan mountains. Yoga mats, board games, card games, etc are available on the rooftop cafeteria. The menu has a wide variety of foods.
Bhagsu Nag waterfall
Post breakfast, we started the journey to Bhagsu Nag temple and waterfall which is quite nearby. The parking lot of Bhagsu Nag temple was overcrowded with cabs and there was no space left for our cab. One needs to walk for a kilometre beyond the parking to reach the Bhagsu Nag temple. The pedestrian route to Bhagsu Nag temple is though a street market. We skipped the temple and decided to go ahead to the waterfall since it was getting sunny.
The Bhagsu Nag waterfall is a trek of around 20 minutes. There are some small shacks (eateries) on the trek route. We purchased some dried saplings (as shown in the picture below). The dried saplings have to be completely soaked in water for one night and then it can be planted in soil or water. When it grows, it looks like a fresh bunch of corriander leaves. The waterfall had very less water since we went there at the end of summer season (4th week of May).
Along the trek route, I encountered a man who keeps a rabbit confined in an extremely small cage—so cramped that the poor animal can hardly move. He has a signboard that reads, “Photo with rabbit – ₹30 per person.” (as shown in the picture above).
I sincerely urge all readers of this blog to avoid supporting such inhumane practices. Taking photos with animals kept in distressing conditions only encourages cruelty. Instead, choose responsible and ethical tourism options that do not harm animals. Say no to activities like horse rides or bullock cart rides, and help promote truly sustainable travel.
Bhagsu Nag temple
After coming back from the Bhagsu Nag waterfall trek, we visited the Bhagsu Nag temple. Even though the parking was extremely crowded, there were hardly any tourists in the temple as well as the waterfall. There is a swimming pool on the opposite side of the temple. Gents clothing is available at very reasonable rates in the street market near Bhagsu Nag temple.
Maan Tea Garden, Dharamshala.
We started the journey to Maan Tea Factory in Dharamshala. They gave us a short tour of the tea making process in their factory for a ticket of Rs.20 only. They manufacture green tea and export it. We also visited their Tea gardens.
We had lunch at Chatori Gully & Urban Sweets, Dharamshala. We had 3-4 chat items rather than having a heavy meal. It is a top Indian vegetarian restaurant in Dharamshala, offering authentic Chandni Chowk-style food in a cozy, nostalgic setting. Perfect for all occasions, it serves delicious, home-style dishes made from fresh ingredients, promising a memorable experience for every food lover.
Norbulingka Institute, Dharamshala.
Post lunch, we visited the Norbulingka Institute. It is a serene and visually stunning place showcasing rich Tibetan culture through its art, architecture, and peaceful atmosphere. Entry is just ₹50 and well worth it. You’ll find a tranquil Buddhist temple, skilled craft departments like Tangkha painting and weaving, a Doll Museum, and beautifully landscaped gardens.
There’s also a charming café, a curated (though pricey) store with handmade items, and stay options (~₹6000 for 2 adults). Workshops and art courses are available—check their website in advance. Plan to spend 2–4 hours here soaking in the blend of art, nature, and heritage. A must-visit, especially for design and architecture lovers.
Gyuto Karmapa Temple, Dharamshala.
The last site we visited was Gyuto Karmapa Temple, Dharamshala nestled in Sidhbari near Dharamshala. It is a peaceful and spiritually uplifting retreat. Originally founded in 1474 and later re-established in India in 1959, it functions as a hub for Tantric Buddhist teachings and is home to more than 500 monks.
Visitor Information
• Timings: Open daily from 7:00 AM to 7:00 PM
• Entry Fee: No entry fee
As the residence of the Karmapa—the spiritual head of the Karma Kagyu school—it plays a crucial role in preserving Tibetan Buddhist heritage.
The monastery is a sanctuary of calm, featuring intricate architecture and radiant golden statues. The chanting and meditation by monks bring a deep sense of serenity to visitors. With sweeping views of the Dhauladhar mountains, the site is clean, well-kept, and welcoming to tourists. A perfect place for those looking to explore Tibetan culture and experience inner peace.
We returned back to The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj and the day ended with dinner and a peaceful sleep. On the next day, we checked out from The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj and started the journey to Kangra Fort.
To read the next blog on Day 05: Kangra, click here.
Where did we eat ?
The Hosteller, Mall road, Mcleodganj.
The Pastry Den, Mall road, Mcleodganj.
Chatori Gully & Urban Sweets, Dharamshala.
