To read the previous blog on day 1 of Kolhapur click here
Day 2: Forts, Temples, and Scenic Trails
We rose early on Saturday and set off to explore the historical Panhala Fort. We were staying at Serenity Resort in Panhala itself. The Fort parking was just a 15minutes drive from the hotel. Although there are lots of shacks on the fort, none of them were open early in the morning at 7:00am. Sophie seemed to enjoy the fresh air and open spaces as much as we did. The entire Fort can be explored by car. There is no trek as such since there are vehicular roads leading to every historic structure on the Fort. The entire fort is pet friendly. In fact, we saw a lot of localites coming for a morning walk. There are a massive number of new illegal constructions done on the fort.
After parking the car, the first structure that we explored was Andhar Bavdi. It can be translated as ‘dark well’. The well served as the drinking water source for the fort. It is a three-story structure with rooms surrounding it. From the ground level, it appears like a regular building, designed to deceive attackers during an assault.
Teen Darwaza is situated near Andhar Bavadi and serves as the main entrance to Panhala Fort from the west. The name “Teen Darwaza” translates to “Three Entrance Gate.” A courtyard lies between the first two gates, while the inner gates are adorned with intricate carvings, including an idol of Lord Ganesh. The outer gate, which provides entry to the fort from the west, features a Persian inscription stating that the gate was constructed during the reign of Ibrahim Adil Shah I by Malik Daud Aki, the son of Minister Ahmed, in the year 954 of the Islamic calendar (1534 CE).
Our next destination was Sajja Kothi, built by Ibrahim Adil Shah in 1500, primarily to oversee the valley. Sambhaji Maharaj was kept under house arrest here for a period. Unfortunately, the site is not well maintained. After a brief visit, we sought the blessings of Goddess Ambabai at Panhala Fort. This temple, the oldest in the fort, was a place where Shivaji Maharaj would pray before embarking on major expeditions. As the Tarabai Palace was closed, we were unable to explore it.
History of Panhala
Panhala, also known as Panhalgarh is a hill fort which is triangular in shape, stands at an elevation of approximately 850 meters and spans a circumference of around 7.25 km. Half of the fort’s perimeter is naturally protected by a steep escarpment, further reinforced by a parapet wall, while the other half is secured by a robust stone wall with bastions.
The fort originally had three grand double-walled gates, of which two have survived. The most impressive among them is the Teen Darwaza on the western side, a massive and formidable structure. Within the fort, numerous ruined monuments remain, including three large granaries, the most notable being Ganga Kothi, covering an area of nearly 950 square meters with a height of 10.7 meters. In the northeastern section, Sajja Kothi, a two-story structure, is notable for being the place where Shivaji imprisoned his rebellious son, Sambhaji.
Historically, Panhala served as the capital of the Shilahara king Bhoja II from 1178 to 1209 AD. It later came under the control of the Yadavas and Bahamanis before being taken over by the Adil Shahi dynasty of Bijapur in 1489 AD. Shivaji captured the fort in 1659 AD, and it was from here that he made his daring escape to Vishalgarh on a stormy night while being besieged by Siddi Johar’s forces. The fort remained under Maratha rule, except for a brief period when it was occupied by the Mughals, before ultimately becoming part of the Kolhapur State until India’s independence.
Panhala is also known for its cultural and literary significance. The renowned Marathi poet Moropanta (1729–1794 AD) was born and raised here. Additionally, the fort houses the Samadhi of Ramachandra Amatya, the author of Ajnapatra, a key work on governance and fort construction. Today, Panhala has evolved into a popular hill station, offering essential amenities for tourists.
We came back to our hotel at 10:am to have breakfast and then we started our journey to Sangli. Our first stop in Sangli was the majestic Kopeshwar Temple, a stunning example of ancient Indian architecture. We marvelled at the intricately carved stone pillars and beautiful sculptures. Pets are allowed to enter the premises of the temple but they are not allowed to go inside the temple. So I waited with Sophie under a shady tree in the premises. The temple was so crowded that we could hardly take any photos. It is advisable to visit this place early in the morning or on a weekday. There are lots of shacks in the parking of the temple. Washrooms are not available.
After a short drive, we reached Sarsenapti Santaji Ghorpade Samadhi, a lesser-known gem surrounded by tranquility. A flight of steps leads down to the Krishna river, a number of rituals might be being performed along the steps. Parking is available, but the number of steps can be difficult for the elderly.
We had lunch at Hotel Darshan (Pure Vegetarian) near Shirol. He allowed our pet in the semi open dining on request. In the afternoon, we followed the scenic roads to Mouje Vadgaon which looks exactly like the famous Parra road of Goa shown in Alia Bhatt’s movie ‘Dear zindagi’
We also stopped by the the gigantic Chinmay Ganadhish Ganapati Temple which is visible from a radius of 1km. They have a dedicated parking space and a washroom. Entry is free of cost. There is a huge lawn in front of the statue where Sophie enjoyed being unleashed.
Both places were serene and offered a great chance to relax and reflect. Sophie was full of energy, eagerly exploring every new sight and sound. We returned to the resort by evening, feeling accomplished and happy, and enjoyed a quiet dinner.
To read the next blog on day 3 of Kolhapur click here
Where did we stay ?
Where did we eat ?
Sadguru Pure veg, Pune- satara Highway
Madhuban Garden restaurant pure veg, Panhala
Kolhapuri wada misal, Kolhapur
Hotel Darshan Pure Vegetarian, Shirol
Hotel Sadguru pure veg, near Yashoda College, Satara
Places that are not suitable for pets
Mahalakshmi Mandir
Bhavani Mandap
Chhattrapati Shahu Maharaj Rajmahal, Kolhapur
Town Hall museum
New palace, Kolhapur
Laxmi Vilas Palace, Kolhapur
Kaneri Museum
Kaneri Math
Kaneri Planetarium
