Our one-day road trip to Manchar turned out to be the perfect little escape from the city. Accompanied by my husband and my pet dog, we set out early from Pune with a packed car, excited spirits, and no fixed itinerary—just a list of historical spots and pet-friendly halts. The weather was kind, the roads inviting, and the idea of exploring ancient temples, stepwells, and forgotten forts made us even more eager for the day ahead.
Tapneshwar temple and stepwell.
To the west of today’s Manchar lies Tapovan, a sacred and revered land known as a holy site for penance. It is believed that Lord Shiva performed intense meditation in this Tapovan, due to which the area has been known since ancient times as Tapneshwar. A temple dedicated to Lord Shiva still stands here, believed to be his eternal abode, and is famously known as the Tapneshwar temple . Mythological references suggest that even the Pandavas set foot on this sacred land and performed penance amidst its natural serenity.
Drawn by the divine aura of this holy place, Lord Krishna himself was overwhelmed with the desire to visit this sacred land of sages and Lord Shiva. Eventually, the opportunity to witness this blessed site arose in his life.
Once, Lord Krishna advised the Pandavas to perform the Ashwamedha Yagna in Hastinapur (ancient Delhi). As part of the ritual, a horse was released to roam the earth, and Arjuna—the mightiest archer—was assigned as its guardian. As the horse galloped with the speed of wind, it was intercepted in Manipur by the valiant warrior Babruvahan, who seized it with his bare hands, showcasing his strength and valor. Babruvahan humbly introduced himself to Arjuna as his own son.
However, Arjuna’s pride flared up, and in a tone of arrogance, he roared, “Impotent fool! How can you be my son? That’s impossible. You are a dancer’s child!” This enraged Babruvahan, and a fierce battle broke out between the two. Arjuna was unable to free the horse and, during the intense combat, he was slain by Babruvahan, who beheaded him.
News of Arjuna’s death spread like wildfire and reached the ears of Lord Krishna. Alarmed, Krishna rushed toward Manipur along with Arjuna’s family. Using his divine powers, Krishna rejoined Arjuna’s body and brought him back to life. He blessed Babruvahan and then visited the sacred Tapneshwar temple, offering his respects. He also blessed the sages residing in Tapovan, who fell at his feet and earnestly prayed for him to remain there eternally.
Pleased by their devotion, Lord Krishna agreed and chose to reside under the peepal tree in the Tapneshwar Mahadev temple premises. The Kanhoa temple (another name for Krishna) thus became a revered shrine for many devotees.
In front of the Tapneshwar Mahadev Temple lies a massive stone-built pond named Dudumbhi Talav. This vast and sturdy tank is said to hold historical significance from the Ramayana era, linked to the city of ancient Manipur. A fierce demon named Dudumbhi once fought a mighty battle against the warrior brothers Vali and Sugreev. Like Ravana, Dudumbhi was a devout follower of Lord Shiva, and he also had unwavering devotion to Lord Krishna.
At the moment of death, Dudumbhi prayed to Krishna, who appeared before him and blessed him with divine vision. Krishna then named the pond formed on the battlefield as Dudumbhi Talav, in memory of the demon. He granted Dudumbhi a boon: that anyone who bathes in this pond would be freed from all their sins. After receiving this blessing, Dudumbhi gave up his mortal form and ascended to heaven.
Historic stepwell, Manchar.
Manchar, a village situated along the Pune-Nashik highway, is home to a historic 14th-century fort. It also serves as a weekly market hub at the intersection of two major highways: Pune-Nashik and Pune-Bhimashankar.
To the west of the village, near a drainage channel along the Manchar-Bhimashankar road, lies a square-shaped Hemadpanthi stepwell (barav). On its western wall, there’s an old inscription in Devanagari script, though it’s heavily worn and difficult to decipher. Historical records suggest that this stepwell was built during the reign of Harpaldev, the son-in-law of Ramdevarai from the Yadava dynasty.
The barav measures approximately 24 meters in length and around 10 meters in depth. Its structure was developed in three gradually receding levels. A devakoshta (niche for a deity) in the western retaining wall features a 25-line inscription from the Yadava period, written in Sanskrit and Devanagari script. At the top of the inscription, carvings of the sun and moon are visible.
During medieval times, Manchar was located on the trade route connecting the important commercial centers of Paithan and Junnar. It is believed that this stepwell was constructed to serve travelers and traders transporting goods along this busy route.
Parking is not available near the stepwell. One can park near the temple of Muktaidevi. Washrooms are available outside the stepwell.
Khadki Pimpalgaon Fort.
Khadki Pimpalgaon Fort, once a true fortification, has now evolved into a village, with modern concrete houses occupying much of the space within its boundaries.
Situated along the banks of the Ghodnadi River, entering through the main gate feels more like stepping into a small town than a historical fort. There’s only the entrance structure of the wada remaining today; the rest has vanished. It is said that this fortified wada was built during his reign by Shrimant Suddhedar Maharasrao Holkar (I) (although no historical proof exists; this is based on local accounts).
Several heritage structures from the Holkar era can still be seen here, including the Mahadev Temple and its adjacent Nandi, the Lakshmi Narayan Temple, Kal Bhairavnath Temple, Biroba Temple, and the Rajmata Ahilyabai Holkar-built ghat (steps leading to the river), as well as the Samadhi (memorial shrine) of Shrimant Suddhedar Maharasrao Holkar (I)’s grandson, built by Waghmare–Patil (son of Shrimant Udabai and Babu Rao Manaji Waghmare–Patil). This Samadhi is a fine example of Holkar-era stone construction. The carvings on the walls of the Samadhi reflect Maratha and Rajput architectural styles. Inside, a Shiva linga is installed, and a Holkar-era stone slab can be seen.
The Biroba Temple near the entrance gate and the carvings around it are also noteworthy. The riverbank near the Holkar structures, now known as Holkar Kalin Nadighat, is an attraction that adds to the beauty of the village. Visitors can view the intricately carved stones that belong to the Holkar era. Though the area around the Samadhi may not always be well-maintained due to overgrown trees and shrubs, efforts are underway to preserve it.
Thanks to the presence of these Holkar-era structures, the village has gained recognition as a tourist spot. The architectural heritage here needs urgent conservation to ensure it doesn’t deteriorate further.
This historical place can be visited on the route: Pune – Rajgurunagar – Manchar – Pimpalgaon (Mahadeo) – Khadki.
Visitor tips:
- Plan around 1 hour for a complete visit
- Entry is free
- Limited shaded parking is available inside the gate
- No washrooms or food stalls are available, so carry enough drinking water.
Holkar Samadhi (Chhatri) at Khadki Pimpalgaon Fort.
Shrimant Suddhedar Maharasrao Holkar (I) gave his daughter in marriage to Shrimant Udabai Holkar – Waghmare – Patil. After marriage, they settled in Khadki village, and Shrimant Udabai Holkar came to be known as Cholibai, a name fondly remembered by the Holkar family. Shrimant Udabai and Shrimant Suddhedar Maharasrao Holkar (I) were the parents of Shrimant Gautama Bai Holkar.
As per the inscription found on the stone slab inside the Samadhi:
“In the name of Lord Ganesha, Pratap Maharaj Mahararaja Jasi and Lakshmi Gautama—her precious daughter Udabai—earned renown on this earth. In the year 1779 (Shaka 1701), in the auspicious month of Chaitra on the 9th day of the bright fortnight (Navami), Baburao alias (father) Manaji Patil Waghmare, Mokadam of the southern side of Khadki village, in loving memory of his father Udabai’s son Avachitrarav Patil Waghmare,
built this chhatri (memorial structure) for the spiritual salvation of his father.”
Ghats at Khadki Pimpalgaon Fort
There are beautiful ghats on the banks of Ghod River. There are abutting the fortification wall of Ghod river. The ghats offer 360 degree panoramic views of the river.
Some archaelogical remnants were found next to the samadhi. They have been installed on a platform in the field. They include a nandi , shivlinga and a wheel.
In evening, we started the return journey to Pune. On the way, we stopped for high tea and snacks at Hotel Shivneri Misal.
Hotel Shivneri Misal pure veg, Manchar.
Hotel Shivneri Misal is our go-to place whenever we are on Pune-Nashik highway since it is pet friendly. I’ve had a great experience bringing my pet to almost every Shivneri branch I’ve visited—they’ve always been welcoming. The staff is courteous, friendly, and ready to help. There’s plenty of parking and clean washrooms available. The food is tasty, with the solkadhi being especially refreshing. Service is fast, making it an ideal spot for a quick breakfast stop while traveling on the highway.
After having a delicious steaming hot misal and tea at Hotel Shivneri Misal, we resumed the return journey to Pune. With tired feet and happy hearts, we began our drive back to Pune, already reminiscing about Tapneshwar’s legends, the hidden Holkar-era gems, and the sense of calm that Manchar had offered us. It was a day well spent—simple, soulful, and refreshingly pet-friendly.